Basic Mountaineering Equipment
This section will brief you on the prime mountaineering equipment used by
the ABVIMAS, Manali and to brief the budding mountaineers on the basic necessities
in mountaineering.
Crampons
There are numerous crampon designs and harnessing styles. When
choosing a crampon consider the following: Is the crampon compatible with
the boot you have already chosen? Do you need horizontal or vertical front
points? A hinged or rigid version? A
step-in or strap-on model. Flexible crampons have a hinge in the middle,
which allows the crampon to flex along its length. This avoids metal fatigue
in the crampon frame when used with a non-rigid soled boot. It also helps
step-in bindings fit on a flexible-soled boot. Rigid crampons do not flex
under a boot, so the boot sole must also be rigid to avoid metal fatigue
in the crampon. Rigid crampons provide more stability when front-pointing
on steep ice, and the vibration from kicking will also be less (which means
that there will be less tendency to shatter the ice). Rigid crampons are
more likely to pick up snow (that is, to "ball up") than flexible crampons.
Strap-on crampons may need to be used on leather boots, especially if there
is little or no welt on your boots. A strap-on system may also be needed
if the crampons are used with overboots or with very large boots. Strap-on
crampons weigh a little less, and they are less expensive than most step-in
models. Step-in bindings are easier to use and faster to put on, particularly
when its cold or dark. They will also fit a boot more precisely and offer
more warmth, since straps can inhibit circulation. However, they are generally
heavier, more mechanically complex, and more expensive than the strap-on
models.
Ice Axes
Choose a 60 to 70 cm axe for general mountaineering. This
length is helpful for probing on glaciers and provides support on moderately
angled snow and ice slopes. A general rule for length, based on height,
is 60 or 65 cm for climbers 5'8" or less, 65 or 70 cm for climbers above
5'8". For very alpine ice routes most climbers prefer a 60 cm axe along
with a shorter more technical tool such as a 55 cm hammer. For steep waterfall
ice two 55 cm tools, one hammer and one adze will perform well. You can
also choose between straight or curved shafts. Straight shafts can be more
versatile in an alpine setting, allowing them to be used in a number of
modes in both snow and ice. Curved shafts offer a more natural swing and
are less prone to bashing your knuckles while providing more clearance when
climbing over bulges and mushroomed ice. Choose the best axe to meet your
specific uses. Seriously consider how much of your climbing will be on steep
ice and how much will actually be on low and moderate angle ice and snow.
Don't make the mistake of getting and axe that may be too specialized for
your needs. Remember straight shafts are more versatile than curved. Another
topic to consider is that some axes allow you to change the type of pick,
length, and angle, de-pending upon the climbing you are doing. This is a
very powerful and reliable option to have!
Ropes Choosing a Ropes: In choosing
a rope, the first decision to be made is whether to use a single or double
rope. Single ropes (ranging in diameter from 9.8mm to 11mm) are still the
most popular in the Himalayas and work well for both ice and rock. In Europe,
double ropes are most commonly used, and they are gaining popularity in
the Himalayas. With the double rope system the leader need only clip one
or the other to any piece of protection allowing each rope to run straighter
and thereby decreasing rope drag. With double ropes there is no need to
carry an extra rope for rappels on the descent.
Learning the Numbers: In
comparing ropes, avoid using diameters as a primary basis of judgment, as
manufacturers determine their diameters using different criteria. Instead
you can use the weight in grams per meter to tell how much material is in
a rope. The right rope will always be a compromise between several factors:
weight, handling characteristics, abrasion resistance, price, and stretch
are among them. Impact force represents the amount of force on the weight
(which represents the climber) in a UIAA fall. Because a low impact force
will put less strain on your protection and the climber, many climbers believe
that this number is more important than total falls held. Field statistics
back this approach, as rope failure is much less common than incidents of
gear failure. Ropes with low impact forces usually have more stretch (which
means longer net falls). The handling characteristic of a rope is very important,
but is not currently quantified in any way. Softer rope is easier to tie
knots with and is nice to handle and belay with. The stiffer rope, however,
is usually more resistant to sheath slippage and abrasion, often the two
factors which lead to early retirement of a rope.
Options For Ropes: Ropes
come either with or without a dry treatment. These treatments help reduce
water absorption, which greatly reduces a rope's strength and temporarily
adds greatly to a rope's weight. Should temperatures drop below freezing
a wet rope can freeze, which greatly increases the chance for failure during
a fall. Dry treatments rarely last as long as the rope does, but post-manufacture
treatment is possible with products specifically designed for climbing ropes.
The standard length for a rope is 50m (165'), but many climbers are opting
for 55m and 60m ropes. The extra length enables longer pitches and longer
rappels. Also, if one end of the rope is damaged and must be cut off, the
rope may still be 50m or longer.
